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甘牌烧味——香江好滋味

镛记酒家凭其烧鹅名满香江,更获国外杂志评为世界十大餐厅之一,美食家蔡澜先生撰文数篇描写过镛记的各道名菜,亦记下与已故镛记大少甘健成的深厚友谊及点滴往事,至情至性、情真意切。

几年前镛记分家之后,甘健成的两位儿子,也是甘家的第三代都各自在香港开设了甘饭馆和甘牌烧味,其中由二儿子甘崇辕在2014年开设的甘牌烧味,其主厨及团队都是在镛记工作了几十年的老师傅,更于开业四个月后荣获米其林一星,其烧味质量自是上乘。
镛记烧鹅还被称为“飞机鹅”,因为都是游客或移居世界各地的港人离开香港时必定打包回去的伴手礼。而现在新加坡人不再需要在香港特地购买“飞机鹅”带回国品尝,因为甘牌烧味将于今年11月落户新加坡!

甘牌烧鸭 (整只$55)
因为鹅肉进口的问题,甘牌烧味在新加坡不卖烧鹅而卖烧鸭,但这也无阻甘牌的好功力继续在烧鸭上燃烧。甘牌的烧鸭皮酥肉实,而皮层下的脂肪,经烤制后异常诱人。切好的烧鸭淋上店家特制的酱汁,肉底下也铺了一层熬煮了4小时金黄色的黄豆,咸香得宜,这是只有在吃完鸭肉后才会发现底下的小惊喜。

化皮乳猪 (一份34.80,半只$148,整只$248)& 脆皮腩仔($14.80)
乳猪及烧肉是非常考功夫的烧味,甘牌的化皮乳猪以及脆皮腩仔烤制得非常香脆,一层小小薄薄的乳猪皮异常爽脆有滋味,而脆皮腩仔的酥脆皮层配搭皮下的肥油及瘦肉,口感非常有层次。

肥浓叉烧(后, $22.80)& 蜜汁叉烧(前, $14.80)
甘牌的叉烧有两款,分别为蜜汁及肥浓叉烧,差别在于肥浓叉烧的肥肉更多!每一块叉烧几乎是半肥半瘦。叉烧烤制前腌制的叉烧酱渗透在肥肉之中,烤制后酥软更有些粘牙,越嚼越有滋味,是甘健成先生的独家食谱。甘牌为肥浓叉烧取的英文名为“Toro Char Siu”,Toro是日本寿司当中最顶级的食材黑鲔鱼,特别之处在于其肉质含有非常多的油分,入口即化,用以形容甘记的肥浓叉烧更显贴切。

桶子油鸡(左)及甘牌烧鸭(右)(烧味拼盘$14.80, 全鸡$14.80)
烧腊当中的油鸡亦是深受食客欢迎的一道美食,也与其他烧味“格格不入”,因为油鸡不是烧烤出来而是豉油焖煮出来的,所以鸡皮非常爽滑,肉质也较细腻。与其他烧味配搭起来更是别有风味。

姜葱捞面 ($6.80)
简简单单的一道姜葱捞面,滋味是大大的有惊喜。甘牌的面是从香港直接空运来新加坡,所以口感上与在新加坡吃到的与众不同,细滑有弹性。几根姜葱再稍加调味,便是满满的香港味道。

陈皮红豆沙
甘牌的甜品陈皮红豆沙是甘健成的招牌之一,陈皮加入红豆汤里大大增添了美味,味道非常丰富。

作者:小咪,马来西亚新山人,在新加坡工作,因工作需要,经常接触历史与艺术,平时并无多少消遣活动,就是爱吃。

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Tel: + 65 6836 7788
Operating Hours: 11am ~ 10pm (Mon to Fri)
10am to 10pm (Sat, Sun; Public Holiday)
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