Anticipating my upcoming trip in France, Spain and Portugal, I was given a comprehensive warm-up of Southern European cuisine up at Chef Jean-Philippe Patruno’s Dehesa.
The Pimientos De Patron ($14) was a somewhat simple but on-point plate to get the dinner started. The peppers were lightly seasoned with salt to keep their original flavours as strong as they could. The spice whetted my appetite.
Dehesa has one of the best collection of Jamon in Singapore. The Jamon de Bellota 100% Iberico was an absolute delight but a single portion would set you back for $36. Remember to order some wine to go with this.
Croquettes are some of my favourite things to eat, and I thought the Croquetas (4 for $14) here were made the way they should be; flavourful with milky cheese and golden brown crispy.
I have had many wonderful Pulpols earlier this year in Mexico and my standards for a good octopus cooked well has been raised to a much higher level than before. The Dehesa Octopus ($28) was prepared in an impressive manner. Getting a good quality octopus in Singapore suitable to be cooked like this, like those from the Caribbean or the Atlantic can be a little challenging so I was pleasantly surprised to try a comparable octopus here that is perfectly under-cooked. The mashed potatoes added a smooth texture while the burnt melted lard gave a meaty dimension to the briny sea creature.
Despite his multiple European identities (he is Italian-Spanish French trained in London) Chef JP didn’t ignore Singapore’s culinary influences on him. He paid his ode to the island with his Sherry LaLa ($18), an improved alcoholic version of the humble Zichar dish.
Dehesa is big on carne or pigs, so don’t miss the Crispy Pig’s Head with Capers and Soft Yolk ($28). The pig head was grilled like the Lechon before the tiny bones were removed and the tender meat moulded and a soft egg yolk added to lend more character to the meat. This is Dehesa’s most popular dish, I was told. And I was imagining if all those pig heads from Loan Sharks can also be utilised and made into this.
Similarly the Pig Skin Tagliatelle, Ragout ($28) was another interesting dish. The “pasta” in question was made 100% out of pig skin before a thick ragout made of pork, greens and I suspect, some innards was poured over the rather tasteless skin noodles. The pig skin was very elastic which made for a rather unusual bite.
I was pretty delighted with the Squid Ink Paella ($28) though it was not the cleanest thing to eat. The rice was cooked al dente and each single grain full bodied with the fragrance of the hot squid ink. The squid was also tender and well under-cooked to my liking.
From his sweets, I can conclude Chef JP has a very Latino personality. His desserts that he fed me were flamboyant and generous with spirits. I was drunk after one mouthful of his Boozy Gin Panna Cotta with Berry Compote and Crumble ($15). That d, if you are the sort that like your Rum Baba, you would not go wrong here.
Later he fed us some special homemade marshmallows (price unavailable) dossed generously with cognac and caramelised on the spot. I call this the marshmallow R21. It was spectacular, like the rest of the meal.
On Sunday’s brunch at Dehesa, patrons pay a mere $58 per pax (drinks not included) and are able to try all the dishes I have just listed and others like the Gambas Ajillo, Seafood Fideua, and Golden Snapper with Chickpeas and Saffron for a sumptuous ala Carte buffet spread.
If not, their weekday lunch menus ($28, $38) or the Happy Hour pincho items at $5 nett from Monday-Thursday 5.30pm-7pm are also good options to consider.
Dehesa
12 North Canal Road, Singapore 048825
Tel: +65 6221 7790
Operating Hours: Mon-Fri Lunch (11.30am-2.30pm)
Brunch Sun (11.30am-4pm)
Mon-Sat Dinner (5.30pm-10.30pm)
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